Xi’an, China – April/May 2018

Xi’an China Trip – Another Look
Convenient routes out of Denver International Airport make it relatively pain free to reach most countries in the world that have an international airport. When I traveled to Xi’an in 2016, United had recently opened a direct route from SFO.  That route didn’t prove successful and was discontinued. Heading west out over the Pacific Ocean flying United, you now have to stop somewhere to connect to Xi’an.  I chose Hong Kong.  Over night near the airport. Flying Dragonair out of HKG to Xi’an XIY. Staying at the Westin Xi’an near the Big Goose Pagoda.  A new Metro Line (line 3) has opened near the Westin that connection to Lines 1&2 providing an easy inexpensive travel option to get around Xi’an to visit the major attractions.  Had good luck getting into town previously with the Airport Shuttle bus so will try that again.  My itinerary includes:

• The Great Wild Goose Pagoda
• Terracotta Army
• The Small Wild Goose Pagoda
• The Ancient City Walls
• Muslim Quarter
• Bell & Drum Towers
• Brew Pubs

Exchange Rates:
$1 US = 6.33 RMB
$1 US = 7.84 HKD

Saturday April 28

Colorado Front Range

DEN – SFO

United Airlines flight 268
Airbus 320
Scheduled flight time 2hrs 20 min

Solar Power Mojave Desert North of Las Vegas, Nevada

Back Bay on approach to SFO

SFO – HKG

United Airlines flight 869
Scheduled flight time 14hrs10min
6925 mile

San Francisco Runway – heading out to Hong Kong

With our late departure out of San Francisco there won’t be enough time to get to Victoria Harbor for the 8pm light show, but there should be enough time to get into the city. Staying out at the Sky City Marriott, near the airport, with train connection into Hong Kong City. The Airport Express train appears to be the quickest option to get me into Hong Kong station on Victoria Island. A short walk will get me to the Star Ferry Dock for the short ride to Kowloon. Delaney’s pub and the night market are both off Nathan Rd. If time allows a visit to both places are logistically possible before the last train back to the airport. Our flight is due to arrive into HKG tomorrow, Sunday April 29 at 6:45pm HK time.

Flight to Xi’an is scheduled to depart HKG Monday April 30 at 11:50am. Flying on Dragonair a subsidiary of Cathy Pacific so will get some OneWorld miles added to my American Airlines account.

Looking South climbing out over the Pacific Coast from SFO

Sunday April 29

Road/Bridge/Tunnel Link from Hong Kong to Macau   The Hong Kong–Zhuhai–Macau Bridge (HKZMB)

On the ground 6:40pm HK time.

United Airlines Boeing 777-300 at gate 69 – HKG

Took train to main terminal 1. Easy immigration. Baggage took a bit from carousel 12. The hotel sent me an email describing a check in location at the terminal which was easy to find. I was on the list and they called a car for the short drive to the Marriott SkyCity Hotel. Great to arrive, even if just for one night.  Safe and secure after the long trip from Denver. Thank you.

Walking to Airport Express through Asia World Expo

Airport Express Train

The nearest station for the Airport Express into the city is at the AsiaWorld Expo, a short connecting walk from the hotel. 115 HKD bought me a same day/rt ticket and 28min later the train arrives at Central Station on Victoria Island.

The Wheel HK Island

Took a minute but found the exit that led me to the walkway to Pier 7 for the Star Line. As I fumbled with my change by the ferry token machine, a woman who was cleaning the area came over and sorted through the change in my hand, fed the machine and out came the black plastic token. 3.7 HKD approx 50 US cents. I thanked her and she smiled as she resumed her sweeping. A nice moment of human kindness.

Entrance to the Star Line Ferry

The ferry is a relic of the days of the British Empire, however due to the increasing HK population and city growth, it is a continuing necessity for the Victoria Island – Kowloon foot traffic despite the metro connection that now exists. Very full at peak times, but tonight no big crowd. Also a great attraction for the Victoria Harbor views it provides to the tourists and residents.
Waited by the gate as the ferry docked. The bells rang, the gate swung open and we all proceeded down the ramp to the upper deck.

View of HK Island from Kowloon side of Harbor

Kowloon-Canton Railway Clock Tower

On tap at Delaney’s

Entrance to Delaney’s Pub – Basement, Mary Building, 71 – 77 Peking Road

Walking on Nathan Road

After a quick stop at Delaney’s the plan was to walk the Night Market. Started in that direction, but ran out of time. Upon reaching the market it was time to turn around and head back to the ferry and the walk to the Hong Kong station to catch the last train to Expo World.

Delaney’s

Monday April 30

Woke somewhat in synch with the time change, enjoyed a relaxing breakfast then shuttled over to the Airport.

HKG Airport view – Waiting for the flight to Xi’an

HKG-XIY
Terminal 1
Cathy Dragon flight KA946
Airbus A330
Scheduled flight time 2 hrs 30 min

Xi’an Arrival

Staying at the Westin Xi’an Hotel
The plan is to take the Airport Bus to the hotel.

There are numerous airport buses into Xi’an. Checking on line it appears that the Westin is either the last stop or the next to the last stop on the Qujiang Line Airport bus. So that was the plan…but as they say, plans are subject to change…
Easy pass thru on the immigration and my bag showed up early. A quick stop at the Bank of China ATM, outside of Arrivals on the left, then headed across the street to the transportation building. The buses run every 40 minutes or so and it is a toss up on timing, with the worst scenario a 40 minute wait and that’s what it tuned out to be. On my previous visit to Xi’an the video screens over the ticket positions would alternately display the routes and stops in Mandarin and English, but that wasn’t happening this time. A display of the address of the hotel in Mandarin on my phone got a blank stare back from the ticket agent. Eventually another agent got involved and produced a ticket for a bus at gate 346. Paid 25 RMB and headed to the gates, but no 346 so figured gate 46 would work so headed there as a bus pulled out. The guy working the gate spoke no English and just pointed to a seat. Showing him the address on my phone and pointing to the hotel location on a map produced a grunt and another point to a seat in the waiting area. So I sat, and waited with some other folks. The guy seated next to me spoke English and confirmed that he and his girlfriend were waiting for the same bus and that they were headed for the same part of town, so should end up near if not at the hotel. A translator app loaded on my phone and knowledge of some survival Chinese would certainly help. Dumb tourist moment, but worked out perfectly.
A bus pulled in, we all lined up and had our tickets checked.  My bag went into the underneath cargo hold and my butt got into a front row seat.  Traffic gradually built. The traffic game in Xian was interesting especially from my viewing vantage point. The pretty bad driving “skills”, at times,  reminded me of a miserable drive from Nasca to Lima, Peru. And then the traffic got worse, with drivers doing broadside traffic blocking U-Turn maneuvers not seen since Shanghai. Actually in Shanghai the drivers would U-Turn despite the fact they were on a one way street. Obviously not the first rodeo for our driver as he patiently maneuvered us through the traffic, blasted the horn appropriately at the worst of the drivers in the increasingly heavy traffic and, in good time, pulled up outside the Westin Xian. Kind of a hallelujah moment.

Retrieved my bag from the underneath compartment and headed into the hotel.
A bellman saw me coming, grabbed my bag and took me to a receptionist and let me know that she would take care of me as he quickly retreated.
Our communication was basic, but came away with key cards to room 2212 in hand and the info that the lounge was on the 5th floor.

View towards Big Goose Pagoda from the Westin Xi’an Hotel

My arrival coincided with the Chinese May Day holiday which explained the heavy traffic and  large crowds on the streets. It was a national 3 day party and the streets and sidewalks were busy. My planning had taken the New Year’s Lunar celebration into account, but did not factor in “Labor Day.”

May Day Concert Xi’an

Musicians May Day Xi’an

Xi’an May Day Holiday

Tuesday May 1

Old City 

Bell Tower Xi’an China

Ink Brushes Shuyuanmen Area Xi’an China

Old City Xi’an China

Old City Walkabout

Muslim Street

Signage Muslim Street Xi”an China

Stripped to the Bone – Muslim Quarter Xi’an China

Spent the morning in Old Town with a walk from the Bell Tower to the Drum Tower. Behind the Drum Tower is Muslim Street, once the main trading area of ancient Xi’an. The main street was busy and the narrow side streets were crowded.  Thought about a visit to the Great Mosque, but tired of dodging the motor bikes and tuk-tuk style delivery vehicles along with the increasing number of people.  Great sights. Lots of motion. Primarily small restaurants, food stands, souvenir shops and some produce and butcher shops. Low rise, old and older buildings, small and large temples. Easy to visualize the Silk Road days.

Visited the Xian Brewery, just a 5min walk from the Westin.
Met the brew master John Terry & his brewer Hector. Didn’t try the food, but the beer was good and the vibe was warm. John came over to Xi’an from the East Coast of the USA to work with a college friend setting up brew pubs in Xi’an. Business Case:  Millions of drinkers looking for a Pub.

Xian Brewery

Xian Brewery Brown Ale

Xian Brewery Interior

Xian Brewery Hookahs

Went out to enjoy the May Day Activities at dusk. A young girl approached me and introduced herself as Alice. As her parents hovered a short distance away, she told me she was in the sixth grade and asked if we could talk.  One of her school projects over the holiday was to practice her English. We sat down on a nearby wall and discussed her school and our impressions of the holiday festivities.  She smiled, thanked me for my time and we exchanged good byes as she rejoined her parents.

Woman in the Westin lobby playing the Guzheng

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guzheng

Labor Day Party in the Streets

Xian May Day Celebration

Xian China

Xian May Day Display

Wednesday May 2

Great Wild Goose Pagoda

The Great Wild Goose Pagoda is across the street from the Westin. Best to go early before the crowd as there are a series of narrow steep stairs to navigate to get to the top.  Beautiful grounds, especially the flower beds.

Great Wild Goose Pagoda

Looking North from Great Wild Goose Pagoda

Looking South from Great Wild Goose Pagoda

Pagoda Garden Buddha

Pagoda Compound Dragon

Pagoda Ivy

Pagoda Flowers

Shaanxi History Museum was on the agenda for the day, however once again the line to get into the museum was generating over an hour wait time, so decided to move on to the next on the list.

The Qujiang Museum –In the basement of the Westin is the  Qujiang Museum of Fine Arts. Very small interesting rotating collections such as some Picasso Plates and Chinese Gold Art Work.  There is a small gift shop and some permanent collections of early Chinese paintings.

Picasso Plate

Gold Artifacts

Weaving

Early Buddha Head

Chinese Painting on Wood

Chinese Painting

Thursday May 3

Terracotta Warriors aka Army
The Terracotta Army is a collection of terracotta sculptures depicting the armies of Qin Shi Huang, the first Emperor of China. It is a form of funerary art buried with the emperor in 210–209 BCE and whose purpose was to protect the emperor in his afterlife.

3 RMB metro Line 3 to Line 2 to Line1 exit Wa ku lou station
Walk north
Bus 306 east side of Xian Train Station

Busy, long line, but 3 buses available so no worries about getting a seat.
A woman tries to steer me to the blue private buses further to the east. More expensive, not any faster. She loses interest in me and walks off to work a small group approaching behind me.

The Bus fills and we are off at 10:20am.
Once underway, a bus staff member starts a fast narrative through a scratchy narrow bandwidth portable PA system and then makes the rounds to collect the fare: 7RMB approx $1 USD.

On my previous trip to Lintong, the bus trip was in a pouring rain with visibility obscured through fogged up windows. Today is a beautiful bright sun filled day with temps in the low 70’s. Forecast high of 85 for the day.
Once in the Lintong area the bus makes a few stops including a long loop through Lintong town center where a number of people exit. The bus is only 1/3 full by the time we pull into the large parking lot fronting some convenience stores and tourist shops west of the site ticket office/entrance facility.

I have arrived during the low tourist tide between the end of the morning tour groups and the arrival of the afternoon tours.  Short wait to purchase my entrance ticket, then a short walk to the site and then the breathtaking initial look of the Warriors stretched out before you in the Pit One building.

Terracotta Warriors – Pit 1

Pit One – Terracotta Warriors from Entrance Gallery

After several laps around the perimeter, the crowd size swelled as the afternoon tour groups started to arrive making it a little more challenging to navigate.  But the views were still great and the experience was awesome despite the slower pace.

Terracotta Warriors – Lintong 1

Terracotta Warriors – Lintong 2

Entrance Gallery/Overview

Terracotta Warriors – Lintong 3

Pit One – Terracotta Army Repair Station

• Arrive Lingtong 11:30
• Depart 2:00
• Arrive Xian 3:06
• Back at Hotel 4:30

Friday May 4

Small Wild Goose Pagoda

Last full day in Xi’an. A long walk from the hotel brought me to the Small Wild Goose Pagoda with it’s exquisite Rose Garden. The roses were almost gone when I visited in December of 2016, but now, in May, they were looking good.

Small Wild Goose Pagoda

Pagoda Rose Garden

Pagoda Rose

Pagoda Garden

Xi’an China Slideshow

Saturday May 5

Travel Day:

Watched a Star Wars Marathon on one of the few English channels. One way to deal with jet lag.  Traveling all day, plenty of time to doze on the plane. Three flights to get back to Denver:

XIY-PEK: Xi’an to Beijing

PEK-SFO: Beijing to San Francisco

SFO-DEN: San Francisco to Denver

Early breakfast
Check out and quick walk to Airport Bus. Caught the 7am. Hotel told me to buy a ticket on the bus, however that wasn’t the case. One of the passengers clued me in to buy my ticket at the last pick up point. He was nice enough to alert me when we reached that point. Got off and bought a ticket, 25rmb, and reclaimed my hotly contested seat. (Full bus) Note: a passport or ID is required to purchase transportation or entrance tickets. By 7:25 we are cruising north on a expressway in relatively light traffic. There are two airport stops and mine is the first drop off, Terminal 2.
Quick Security check into the Terminal.  The big display board above the security gates that normally details Flights and check in information is not working. This is the domestic travel terminal and it turns out check in is at D34 which is the international connection counter. It is not staffed until 9:00 am and it is now 8:30. So a short wait ( a few laps around the Terminal) to get checked in, then a thorough Security check, carry on and personal, then head for the lounge. Gold Star Alliance gets me into the King Louis lounge which works out fine with good internet and F&B. Charge phone and check mail/news. Boarding starts at 10:20am ct.

Initially my assigned seat was 16A, however at the airport I was assigned seat 15A. Typically that sounds like a window seat, however on this Air China Boeing 737-800/8 there is no window at that position. My request to be relocated was honored. After the plane boarded, window seat 34F was not occupied and the flight attendant directed me there. There was a little chaos getting relocated, my apology to all affected.

XIY-PEK
China Air flight 1232
Boeing 737-800/8
On the ground 12:33 PEK
Gate 325/326

Followed the transfer signs to a train. The second stop was the International
E terminal. Cleared immigration then went through what seemed to be a very chaotic and not well managed security clearance. Found the Air China Business Lounge, regrouped and connected.

PEK-SFO

UA889
Boeing 777-300
Scheduled flight time 10hrs 20min

Easy Global Entry and bag retrieval
Denver flight departing from gate 68 – T3
Couldn’t get Air China issued boarding pass to scan.
Got a new one from a conveniently located United boarding pass machine and once cleared headed to a lounge.

SFO-DEN
UA 720
Boeing 737-900
Easy flight to Denver.  Good to be back home.

SUMMARY:

Good trip to Xi’an. Adding in a layover in Hong Kong was a bonus. Quick travel from the Airport to Hong Kong Island.  Travel with Dragonair to Xi’an worked well.  The bus ride from XIY into Xi’an was good, just the ticket buying experience could have been improved.  Much easier to get into the Old City area using the new subway line 3. The Dayanta station is a short walk to the Northeast of the Big Wild Goose Pagoda.

Arriving into Xi’an during an unanticipated holiday weekend (week for many) increased the visitor flow at all of the attractions visited, but not a major impact.  But the holiday also provided sights and sounds not anticipated, with the majority of the festivities taking place on the street around the corner from my hotel.

Re-visiting the Pagodas and Terracotta Army was time well spent.  Different time of year provided a different perspective. No major travel issues, just the normal bump and grind of traveling long distances through several countries. Time to do some planning for my next big trip: Hanoi, Vietnam.

All Photos by Jay Geiss – All rights reserved.

Credit: Wikipedia.org