About this trip:
After a few trips to Bangkok I was ready to see more of Thailand. Conversations with fellow travelers, info in my Thailand travel book and web searches for details, opinions and options led me to add the historic walled and moated square mile of Chiang Mai to my Thailand destination schedule. Built in 1296, it was the prosperous Capital of the Lanna Kingdom. With Laos to the East, Mynamar (Burma) to the West and China to the North, it was a valuable asset that was fought over regularly and changed “ownership” a few times. The 430 mile trip north from Bangkok takes a little over an hour by air vs. 12 hrs on the train. The city has expanded on all sides of the core city. The old city has a three story height restriction, but outside the moat it seems all is up for grabs in regards to building size and style. The best time to visit is the dry season, November to February. The magnets of the Temples, markets, restaurants, street vendors, festivals, affordability and the warm hospitality of the Thai people attracted me and I started planning a visit. The city proved to be a great Walkabout.
- Thailand Trip 01/16/18 – 01/25/18
Exchange Rate: $1 US = 31.46 baht - Thailand time zone is +14hrs from Denver, Colorado’s Mountain Time.
- Tokyo time zone is +16hrs from Denver.
Flight out of Denver International Airport (DEN) on United Airlines.
Tuesday January 16
On board United flight 143, a direct flight from Denver to Narita Airport (NRT) Tokyo, Japan on a Boeing 787-8.
Captain advertised a 11hr 9min flight time. All doors closed, ready to push back. Very cold last night in Denver, -1 degrees F, and there is some frost on the wings.
- Off the ground at 12:47pm mt. No deicing required.
- Expected arrival 3:53pm Tokyo time Wednesday.
- Cruising at 41001′ 482mph
Wednesday January 17
3:59pm Tokyo time: Landed at Narita Airport NRT in heavy rain. Very easy transfer to the International Terminal. Next flight is with Japan Airlines and they have a comfortable lounge to relax in while waiting out the connection time. Sushi, Saki and Kirin from the beer pour machine and a good internet signal.
- ANA 805 boards at 5:55pm from gate 59A.
- 6hr plus flight to Bangkok seat 25D.
- ETA BKK: 11:55 pm Bangkok time Wednesday.
- Boeing B787-9
Gate 59A is serviced by a shuttle to the plane, which is parked on the tarmac. We all load up and start driving around the airport in search of a plane. Pouring rain when we arrive, so a short wait as a person with an umbrella gets positioned between the shuttle door and the steps to the aircraft. Full flight, 2891 miles to Bangkok. Advertised Flight Time is 6:45 hrs.
We were late boarding then sat on the aircraft for 1.5 hrs before we started taxing to a runway. The Captain blamed airport congestion, maybe a direct result of the heavy rains. The 11:55pm Wednesday arrival time has pushed into Thursday.
Thursday January 18
Happy to arrive in Bangkok. The airport was busy with an hour wait to get through immigration. Collected my checked bag from carousel 6 and headed to the taxi meeting point on level one, punched the ticket machine to see who the “lucky winner” was to take me to the hotel…….number 39! The taxis are parked under overhead numbered digital signs. The driver collected my bag, back seat doors locked, so sat in front. Cars drive on the English side of the road. The driver told me that the highway tolls and a 50baht service charge would be added to the metered fare. He took the long way. Handed the driver 500baht and headed into the hotel. Room 3316. Good to be off the road!
The plan is to travel to Chiang Mai Friday afternoon, so will have the balance of Thursday to adjust to the time change, the night to day reversal, and reacquaint myself with Bangkok.
It is a short walk from the hotel to the Thong Lo Skytrain station. Two stop ride, 23baht, to the Asoke station. Short walk to the Heartland Spa for a great 1 hour foot massage. Feet are tuned up, so time to walk!
The morning has evaporated, it’s now 12:15pm. Ride the Skytrain Sukhumvit Line from Thong Lo to the Siam Station, transfer to the Silom line for the ride down to the Stephan Taksin stop by the Chao Phraya River. Exit down the southwest stairs from the platform, 2 minutes to the Sathorn Pier for the Water Bus connection. 15 baht for the orange flag express boat.
Note: The Orange Flag express boat make fewer stops and is less expensive than the tourist boat. The tourist water bus stops at more locations. Check your stops to pick the right option.
My plan is to disembark at the Phra Arthit Pier and walk over to the National Gallery. The orange flag boats run every 20 minutes or so. Got a standing spot on the river side as we chug up the river with the noisy boat maneuvering with whistles and reverses and snug ups to the dock as people get on and off and we hustle to the next stop avoiding the other boats competing for dock space on the busy river.
We swing across the river to dock at Wat Arun. The scaffolding around the towers is gone, latest restoration complete. We hug that shore for several stops then cut back for the Wat Pho stop and pass under the Memorial bridge and dock at my stop, Phra Arthit.
Shops, stalls and small eateries line the narrow walkway from the dock to the street then a right and then a left and I follow the signage to the Gallery. On the opposite side of the street, a long line of parked tour buses obscures the view of the National Museum. The National Gallery occupies the old mint building. The woman at the ticket reception looked surprised when I walked in and queried if I knew that I was at the National Gallery. I thought that was strange, but then I thought they may get people in the door looking for their neighbor museum across the street. For a highly rated Museum, there wasn’t much foot traffic coming through the door. I soon found out why.
I paid the 600baht admission fee and checked out their very limited collections which were primarily paintings by the former king, some reproductions of 16th-18th century mystical allegorical religious events, a temporary collection of work by current Thai artists, and some old faded obscure wall hangings that were not identified.
A courtyard building identified as housing the permanent sculpture collection was locked and from the outside looking in appeared empty. A gardener was watering some plants and a woman was sweeping the walks, but nothing else appeared to be going on in the courtyard or out buildings/wings. I collected my backpack from locker 3 and moved on. From what I could tell, I was the only visitor.
A few blocks away was one end of the Khaosan Road market aka “the backpacker street”, with numerous stalls selling clothing and souvenirs with occasional street food eateries, restaurants, bars, bugs on a stick, tuk – tuks and massage shops.
The road was busy for an early hot afternoon. Someone said that the place is much busier at night when it is cooler and the party crowd arrives. Hard to resist the urge to sit down at one of the outdoor watering holes for a couple of cold beverages. At the end of Khrosan took a left and headed along Ratchadamoen Klang Rd, towards the Democracy Monument. Searching for the Jay Fai street food eatery. Recently awarded a Michelin Star.
A sign near Democracy Square said it was Kilometer Zero for Thailand’s main highways. Turned right on Maha Chai Rd. and found the Jai Fai eatery which had under 20 tables inside and out which were all full, no one had food on their table (?), and there was a long wait list so I moved on down the road. Some on line reviews of Jay Fai said the sometimes 4hr wait is worth it, but I will try to have a reservation next time. Took a left on Yaowarat Rd. for a walk through China Town. Most of the shopping action here is on the side streets and alleyways bordering Yaowarat. The Flower and Vegetable Markets are closer to the river. Plan is to check them out on my layover day following the Chiang Mai visit.
Found the train station and metro after a left turn at the Chinatown gate which then led me past Wat Tramit, which houses the Golden Buddha and then a right to the Hua Lamphong Metro Station.
Last time in Bangkok the road construction made it an adventure to get to the Metro station. Now some of the road construction has completed making it a little easier.
Bangkok Canal on the way to the Metro Station
Took the metro to the Sukhumvit stop then walked to the Asoke Skytrain station for the two stop ride to the Thong Lo Station. Then a short walk to the Marriott Sukhumvit.
Tomorrow, Chiang Mai.
Walkabout: 6.9 miles
Friday January 19
- Check out and walk to Thong Lo BTS station.
- train to Thaya Thai Station 44Bht.
- 10:33 Airport Train to BKK, 45 Baht, Takes 30 min.
This is the first time my flight schedule has coincided with the open hours of the Airport Express. Usually I come in too late or leave too early to take advantage of this efficient and inexpensive airport transportation option. (approx. $3.00 US including Skytrain)
Check in is at the C positions. No window seats available, however a lounge pass is provided so good trade off.
- Flying Thai Airways TH 110
- Seat 14J Airbus 330.
- Quick and easy security.
- Thai Orchid Lounge – Sat in the Garden View section.
- Gate A6
- Take off at 1:50pm for the 55min flight to Chiang Mai.
- ETA 14:47.
Landed on time and a quick disembark to luggage carousel one. It seemed like all arriving flights were assigned to the same carousel even though there were two additional carousels. I grabbed my bag and headed for the exit. “Taxi Mister?” was the greeting from the dispatcher as I exited the terminal to a crowd of drivers in their grey Airport Taxi shirts. I acknowledged yes and we discussed my destination. She called out to the drivers where I wanted to go and one young man stepped forward, said he knew the location and indicated he would take me, set the price at 160 baht, grabbed my bag and headed for his taxi with me following behind. Funny moment.
A short drive later, parts of which were recognizable by the moat and old city wall, he had me at the De Chai Deco hotel where I was greeted by the doorman, who took my bag while I paid the driver, and I followed him into the hotel.
They had my reservation. As they processed my check in I enjoyed a welcoming drink of passion fruit. Room 407, my Chiang Mai home away from home for the next 4 days.
Thank you universe for a safe delivery, all of the travel events had gone the best they could.
Checked out the room with its close view of a utility power grid, got on the Internet and started devices charging.
Time to head out for a walk.
Dusk was settling in as I started my Chiang Mai exploration. My immediate thoughts were about food and drink, and it wasn’t until I reached the corner of Soi 5 and Tha Pae Rd that I decided to go right on Tha Pae and look for the Night Market. I was passing the Wat Bupparam when a swarm of tuk tuks exited in front of me, a tour group headed for their next destination. When the traffic subsided I walked into the compound for a look.
Cleared the Wat and continued on to Soi 1. Looking down the lane the statues for the Zabai Thai Spa were lit up on the left, decided it was a good choice and time for a massage.
A great treatment to sort out my travel stiffness. The therapist worked me over with the Thai stretching and found all my tight spots with the massage. So good, signed up for another session for the next day.
A short walk from the Spa and I was in a very busy street lined with booths stores shops hotels eateries of all types and crowds of fellow travelers and shoppers. The night markets were rock in’, the streets and sidewalks were crowded with vendor stalls. Any room left was slow with foot traffic.
The Night Market aka Night Bizarre has many sub markets that stretch out to the east and west from Chang Klan Rd which runs north south. The Night Market is intersected by Thapae Rd on the north and Loi Kroh Rd to the south. Many markets had live music areas usually surrounded by food courts or pop up street kitchens and souvenir stands. Vibrant Crazy Shopper Nirvana if you can go with the ebb & flow.
Endless shopping…..
I had found a town with more Same Same but different in this first market area than in any other market in any other country I have visited. And there is the potential for much more variety based upon my web info. The Night Market is huge, north is the Warorot Market area which is less tourist and more local commercial goods. There are also pop up’s such as the Saturday and Sunday walking street markets where streets are closed to traffic and vendors set up through the afternoon and evening. And then there is the normal parade of street vendors and shopkeepers doing their daily business.
So if you like the crowded kaleidoscope of people and colors accompanied by the street sounds mixed with the opportunity to find some interesting merchandise, the Chiang Mai Markets are for you.
The hotel room proved to be very comfortable and well designed. Not much noise on Soi 5. Turned off the air and opened the window. The tv station selection is not geared for a western audience, but European soccer was available and with the time shift it was a live real time broadcast.
Walkabout: 8.1 miles
Saturday January 20
Beautiful cool morning. The hotel breakfast was excellent. The plan for the day was to check out the Warorot Market area which is situated north of the Night Market. Another huge shopping area extended many blocks, but this one has a large wholesale industrial commercial segment as well as food, household and clothing. This seemed to be more of a business & locals area. There were also tourist oriented shops, but they weren’t the main focus as in the Night Markets. I ended up in a fabric shop sorting through tall rolls of all types of material, colors and design.
Returned to the hotel weighted down with some unexpected purchases. Dropped them off before heading west towards Old Town for a tour of the Wats. Purchased a Chiang Mai map from Amazon prior to the trip and it proved to be very helpful for the most part with my orientation/directions. Old Town Chiang Mai is just that, old, with many alleys and side streets off the larger roads with the smaller streets adopting the Main Street name they intersect with and a numeric Soi designation. An example would be the address of my hotel the DeChai Deco at ThaPae Rd Soi 5, the 5th numbered Alley off Tha Pae Rd. This naming convention is predominate in Thailand.
A short walk to the Tha Pae gate into the Old City. People feeding pigeons, taking selfies, posing for photos and checking out the old wall at this portal.
There are Wats everywhere! Going west on Ratchadamnoen Rd I recognize names of the different Wats, hotels, spas from my on line searches and tour guide reading. I am headed to Wat Phra Singh at the western end of the road. I am easily distracted by what ever I come across that looks interesting. Only a short walk until a left into the first Wat.
Wat Phan On is not on my map but worth a look.
Next stop, Wat Phra Singh at west end of ThaPae.
Very peaceful time at the Wats. Amazing designs and images everywhere. Beautiful weather.
After Wat Phra Singh, took a walk down to the south gate in search of the Saturday Night Walking Street Market, but it was too early, the festivities start around 6pm. So headed north to the U.N. Irish Pub for a sit down and a cold beer. Sports on the TVs, Guinness on tap.
The big party zone, centered around Zoe in Yellow, is close by but doesn’t start rockin’ until the evening.
Walked back to the Thapae Gate. 6pm appointment at Zabai Thai Spa.
Later that night on Thapae Rd, just past the Wat Buppharam, a crowd has gathered around a Rotee Pop up making arguably one of the the best street food snacks in Chiang Mai. A stop here every night became part of my routine.
Follow this link for more Rotee info.:
https://www.urbanadventures.com/blog/best-rotee-chiang-mai-night-bazaar.html
Walkabout: 6.3 miles
Sunday January 21
Walkabout
Today Wat Chiang Man is on the agenda.
First stop is Khun Kae’s for a smoothie. Inside the Old City, north of Thapae gate.
Wat Chiang Man is a short walk from the smoothie stand.
Three women were gathered on the shady side of the Wat. Their baskets filled with birds. They offered to release the birds for a donation. A symbolic offering to Buddha.
On my way out of the complex a man approached offering his services as a driver. He introduced himself as Mr. Boy, a former Thai Boxer from Bangkok, now living here at the Wat Complex with his wife. He pulled out a worn flyer advertising the Bo Sang Umbrella and Sankampang Handicrafts Festival, which was ending today.
https://www.thegtrider.com/thailand-2018-bo-sang-umbrella-festival-chiang-mai.htm
We looked at the flyer in the shade, under a tree, on the hood of his old Honda Civic. It looked road worthy, the price was OK and Mr. Boy started up the car for the day trip.
Always interesting to see the towns and surrounds, took a bit more than the advertised 30 minutes as we made stops at the “we will give you a commission if you bring your client here” shops on the out skirts of the Umbrella Festival. A discussion with Mr Boy about getting some gifts created this chain of events. Interesting, good quality, but no need at the first ( Amazing high quality weaving, rugs, fabrics…), and second (Lacquer Wares). The third was a winner, a Silk Store with a space devoted to the history of the trade with exhibits/demonstrations of the worm to product manufacturing basics.
The Festival was on!
Mr Boy maneuvered us into a parking spot by the Umbrella Factory and we headed out to the main street. Women on bikes were parading, we walked the area and ended up in an eating spot. Mr Boy ordered, we ate. Basic vegetable and noodle dishes with some good spices & chilis. Cold bottles of water.
Walked around the Umbrella Making Factory and their gift shop. Interesting demonstration of bamboo and paper umbrella making A-Z. Bonus: A woman in the paint shop production line painted a dragon on my ball cap. The Bike Parade was starting up for another review as we rolled out of town and Mr Boy headed back into Chiang Mai. Got out at the Northeast gate into the Old Town. Walked back to the Tha Pae Gate through random side streets.
Evening Events:
- Spa
- Rottee
- Sunday Night Walking Street market.
The Sunday Night Walking Street is held on Ratchadamnoen the main east-west road in the Old City extending west from the Tha Pae Gate for approx. 1/2 mile and at least one block north and south. Everything is going on and the crowd is large then very heavy and then it gets very slow to move around. Moved into the side streets and courtyards when the main road got too crowded
Good selection of crafts and tourist “trash & trinkets,” as well as food/snacks and drinks.
Walkabout: 7.2 miles
Monday January 22
During yesterday’s drive back from Bon Sang Mr Boy’s brother Joe Joe got scheduled to drive me up to Wat Phra That on 3500′ Doi Suthep. Mr. Boy said his car couldn’t make the grade. We met at Wat Chiang Man. A 30 minute drive from Old Town to the northeast through the university area then up a steep road with many switchbacks and curves the temple stairs.
Easy walk up to the Wat. Arrived early enough to beat the crowd, but within 30 minutes the Wat was busy which slowed the flow and ended the quiet. On a clear day there would be a good view of Chiang Mai.
Mr Boy’s brother Joe Joe asked where to next as we drove down the mountain. It turned out his fee was for the day, not just the trip to the Wat. He handed me a brochure that had info on his regular stops, none were of interest and my communication skills were not good enough to ask for a scenic tour, so we parted ways at the North Gate into Old Town.
Walkabout: 6.3 miles
Tuesday January 23
Departure day. Organize and prep for the trip to Bangkok. But first, another walk around Old Town. First stop is another look at Wat Phon On. This morning it is quiet and a good time to visit.
Next is Wat Chedi Luang. I didn’t get a look at this Wat over the weekend due to crowd size, today there is no line or crowd of tour groups and I pay the foreigner fee of 40 baht and wander around the compound. There is an ancient Chedi, the top of which is in ruins. There were two attempts at construction, both interrupted by earthquake damage, before it was abandoned.
My time in Chiang Mai is running out, so one last wander through the streets to Khun Kae’s Juice Bar for a “D” smoothie from the menu to drink on the walk back to the hotel.
Once again there’s an extra duffle bag for the return journey. Checkout is easy and the hotel calls for a taxi. Loaded into a yellow and green local cab. 20 minutes later we are at the domestic terminal. X-ray check of everything to enter the terminal. Thai Airlines has a small check in presence compared to some of the other carriers. No line, get a window seat and notification that the Royal Orchid Lounge is undergoing a remodel so there is a temporary lounge in the Thai Restaurant upstairs. Head to Security 30min before boarding time and find a seat by gate 4 for flight TG111 for Bangkok.
Running behind schedule. 3:40pm and we are rolling to a runway. Takeoff to the northwest. Airborne at 3:53pm. We turn over the city and head south.
Touchdown into Bangkok BKK at 4:57. My bag shows up, Airport Link is the next stop. Train to Phaya Thai stop. Change to Skytrain to Thong Lo. The Skytrain is packed as the late arrival into Bangkok has pushed my travel window into major rush hour impact. Long hot crowded ride to Thong Lo. Short walk to the hotel. Busy slow reception, checked in to rm 3501 and headed to the lounge. Already missing the Chiang Mai evening routine of Massage, Markets and Rotee! Tomorrow is a full day in Bangkok.
Walkabout: 4.6 miles
Wednesday January 24
Foggy humid morning. Skytrain to Asoke then short walk to Healthland Spa for a foot massage. The remains of a rain storm still flooded the street corners. There are sidewalk puddles and dripping awnings on the walk back to the Skytrain. The skies opened up again as I changed trains at Silom and it stopped as exited at Staphan Taksin (perfect timing) and walked to the dock to catch the Orange Flag boat to Wat Pho. The humidity quickly built back up and a large crowd had assembled by the time the boat arrived. Grabbed a seat on the river side and soon we were heading upriver.
Enjoyable visit. Had a good walk around the compound then exited and walked towards Memorial bridge in search of the markets of Chinatown.
Found the vegetable/flower market and bought some spices and teas, then it morphed into more of a Commercial/Wholesale market with varied goods that you could buy in quantity or in singles.
In places it’s a very narrow crowded walkway through the covered market with numerous side alleyways. Occasional motorbikes and food carts and hand trucks interrupted the already constrained traffic.
Major intersecting roads brought the flow to a halt as heavy traffic flowed and traffic cops whistled and waved the street traffic on while the backed up dam of pedestrians grew to critical mass and eventually pushed out into the road and the cops would have to hold up the vehicles as the pedestrians could no longer be contained. And on the other side of the road you would enter another cavernous market and get swallowed up in the next maze of shops.
Eventually the variety of shops became just more of the same, so pushed left into a side alley with less traffic and exited on Songwad Rd in the heart of Chinatown. New area for me to walk around with groupings of shops by trade mixed with food shops/markets. Soon the spire of the Wat Tramit came in view so headed there walking through the compound on my way to the Metro station. The ticket machine wouldn’t take my 20baht notes so fed it a 100baht note and it spit out a token and a clatter of change. Soon on the platform loading onto a very cool air conditioned train headed to my destination, Sukhumvit. Changed to the Skytrain, two stops to Thong Lo and the short walk to the hotel.
Charged devices and started packing. Need to leave early tomorrow morning to catch my 7am flight to Tokyo. Great walk on my final full day in Thailand.
Thursday January 25
Finished packing, called for a taxi, one last look around room 3501 and checked out. The bellman loaded me and baggage into the waiting taxi and we headed out into the early Bangkok morning at 4:20. This driver knew the way and got me to Suvaranbumi Airport in 25min. Very quick check in and an easy pass through security, short wait at Passport Control and I was on concourse E.
First leg, 7 hr flight to Tokyo Narita NRT. Air Japan B787-900. Second leg, Tokyo to Denver, is a 12hr flight United Airlines B787-800.
Quick on time load – Thanks Star Alliance Gold. Takeoff 7:25. Expected arrival in Narita at 3:50 Tokyo time.
Touchdown Narita 2:46. Long drive around the airport, off the plane a 3:15.
Passport/Security Check. Flight UA 142 leaving from gate 27. Boarding at 5:25pm.
Summary
Good Trip to Thailand.
The big city of Bangkok has some peaceful places intermixed with the continuous buzz. Always good to return, enjoy some past events and experience some new. Transportation in Bangkok very good, inexpensive, predictable and the combo of Skytrain, Airport Express, Metro, Water Bus and feet got me everywhere.
First time use of the Airport Express. Excellent alternative via public transportation between the BKK Airport and the city.
Chiang Mai has some buzz intermixed with the continuous peace. Chiang Mai’s energy level was just as high as Bangkok’s, but more somber, more focused, disciplined. The long history as a religious and trading center is an interesting combination as the path of the holy man is not always the path of the trader. A good “small town” feel is prevalent. And when the sun goes down and the lights come up and the party starts you might ask, where have all these people come from?
Lots of tourists in the Old City and periphery and a large local population get out at night when the temperature dips. Good crowd being human.
The day trip with Mr Boy over to Bo Sang was good. I had read about the Umbrella Factory and the surrounding community and had put it on my list. I had looked at transportation and the best was to hire a taxi. When Mr Boy presented the opportunity, it was a somewhat spontaneous yes.
Transportation was primarily by foot with the trips to Bo Sang, Wat Phra That and the airport taxis the exceptions.
I would include Chiang Mai on a future trip to Southeast Asia. I just got the feel of the place by visiting the attractions. Next time a little deeper dive. Local Artisans, Crafts people.
- United Airlines
- Air Japan
- Thai Airways
- Marriott Bangkok Sukhumvit Hotel
- De Chai the Deco Hotel
Jay Geiss - Walkabout 
Next time take me with you to Chiang Mai!!!!!!!
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