Japan – JR East Rail Pass December 2018

Last trip of the year, destination Tokyo, flying on a Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner operated by United Airlines. This is a direct flight from my home airport, Denver (DEN), to Tokyo’s Narita (NRT) Airport. The plan is to have some fun walking around and experiencing some new locations using the 7 day JR East Railpass which looks like it will cover the majority of my transportation needs on this quick trip. I ordered the pass and a Suica Card on-line through Japan Experience and received the card and a Pass voucher via express mail. The JR East Service Center at Narita will trade the voucher for the actual rail pass: next Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto and Hiroshima!

Japan Trip
11/05-12/2018

Exchange Rate: $1US=113.2Yen

Tokyo +16 hrs
42 degrees in Denver 65 degrees in Tokyo

Monday December 5

Advertised 2hr18min flight to San Francisco

A Hazy sky softens the edges of the parade of passing peaks below. Turns out it is the first day of a major forest fire in California and the smoke is moving in. 28,000’ 450mph

Found the Polaris lounge at SFO on the International Concourse and it is a big step up from the average Club lounge. Not busy this early; meeting, shower and resting rooms on level 3 and level 4 has a restaurant, buffet area, full service bar, good seating and some small rooms for phone calls/privacy. Lox and bagel from the restaurant and a Paloma from the bar.
All devices Charge!

UA 837 11:10am flight to Narita – Tokyo
Seat 5A Boeing 777-300

Advertised flight time 10hrs30min, due into Narita at 3:35pm Tuesday November 6
Following the sun to Japan

31,000’ 540mph

Tuesday November 6
Raining at Narita
Early evening
Arrival at gate 75 Terminal One
Long line at security with the added delay bonus of getting fingerprinted and photographed before getting into the actual security queue. If there was a fast track line, I missed it.

Easy luggage, my bag was already pulled off the baggage carousel and in the “priority”collection.

JR East Service Center at the airport converted my Rail Pass voucher to an actual rail pass and I booked my first ticket, using the pass, on the Narita Express train #38 into Tokyo.
Once at Tokyo Station and up on the main floor, I stopped by a map of the station to get oriented. I have been through this place a number of times and still get turned around. The maps were all south oriented rather than north, odd but I was somewhat jet-lagged and my internal compass was taking a break as I located myself at the “you are here” dot. Several people saw me staring at the map and offered assistance and one man gave me directions to the JR Service Center. At the center, which was an open space counter in a busy corridor, I got my seat reservations for all of the long distance Shinkansen trains. While you don’t necessarily need a reserved seat, you can queue for the non-reserved cars, this turned out to be a good move as several of the trains I had planned to take were sold out. There was a selection of trains to my destinations separated by only a few hours +/-, so easy to adjust my schedule and get seats.

It was raining as I left the station in search of the Intergate Hotel Shimbashi. I wasn’t able to get my phone to switch to a local network so I had no map app, but I had looked at the location a few times on a map prior to the trip and sort of remembered a route, got lucky and walked right to it.

Easy check in, paid in ¥ as there was a 5% surcharge as well as a poor currency exchange rate to pay in US dollars. Good to have a card with no foreign transaction fees. Room 1703, top floor, non-smoking small single worked out well. Room designed for maximum efficiency in a small footprint. Internet, refrigerator, safe, window that opened and PJs! New hotel, clean and comfortable. I would stay there again.

This location is bracketed by two different train station, Asakusa line and the Ginza line. I took the Asakusa Train towards Asakusa station, 6 stops and a short walk brought me to the Senso-ji temple complex. Well lit at night with no crowd. The shops on the approach from the gate were all closed with their overhead garage doors snugly pulled down. Light rain showers moved in and out. Good walkabout to mitigate the airplane ride.

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Wednesday December 7

Early morning walk to the old Tsukiji fish market. The wholesale market has closed and moved to a new location, but many of the little sushi restaurants and fish stores still remain at this point. A woman at one of the sushi counters called me in and I enjoyed a great breakfast of Tuna, Salmon, Miso Soup and hot tea, Y800, about $7 US.

Travel to Osaka

Stayed at the Sheraton Miyako Hotel for 3 nights. Good base for my walkabouts in Osaka and nearby Kyoto. All travel was using the Rail Pass: Trains to/ from Osaka Central to the Tsuruhashi Station (nearest JR Station to my Hotel), Trains from Osaka Central to/from Kyoto Central and the train to/from Kyoto Central on the JR Nara line to the Inari stop for Fushimi Inari Taisha. I used the Japan Travel by NAVITIME App throughout the trip to check on train schedules and local information. The App can prioritize searches for the trains that use the JR East Pass. Trains all run on time.

Kyoto

Very busy in Kyoto. Go Early! Got busier as the day progressed. I visited a much smaller less touristy Kyoto this time of year many years ago. I have memories from that trip that I could not put into the context of current Kyoto.

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Osaka

My hotel was a mile from the Dotonbori area, Osaka’s Party Central. I walked there several times to eat and check out the scene.

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Osaka Castle is about a 2 mile walk from the Sheraton or a 15min walk to the Tsuruhashi Station and a 5 minute train ride. The Castle is on the high ground in a beautiful park.

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Saturday November 10
Travel to Hiroshima

Got out in the morning for one last walkabout around the Dotonbori Area
Lots of blurry eyed people recovering from the previous night’s party, delivery trucks re-stocking the bars and restaurants and garbage trucks and street cleaners mopping up the area.

Found a fun market in Osaka, walked by it a few times, hiding in plain site. Kuromon Market at the corner of Sennichimae-Dori and Sakai-suji. Large, indoor, food, retail, go early. Got some great teas here.

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Hiroshima

I added this travel segment late in the planning stage because the great Japan rail network made it possible and the pass made it easy. I have wanted to visit Hiroshima for many years due to the pivotal unsuspecting role it played in world history. I am taking the Sakura Shinsanken from Osaka to Hiroshima. The Sakura Trains are equivalent to the Hikari Trains. It appears that Osaka Central Station (also known as Shin Osaka) is the dividing point, Sakura Trains to the South and Hikari Trains to the North.

Sakura SuperExpress #555 leaving from Shinosaka track 20 at 12:08pm
Arriving Hiroshima 13:34

I stayed at the Sheraton Grand Hiroshima which is adjacent to the train station. No upgrades available, however Room 1615 was more than adequate for my quick visit. An excellent hotel and the staff were extremely accommodating. I walked into town to find the Peace Park. It’s about a two mile walk or a short subway ride from Hiroshima Central.

August 6, 1945
8:15 am
A-Bomb exploded
600 meters above and 160 meters southeast of the Industrial Promotion Hall. The building absorbed the overhead blast.

The park was peaceful. The museum was closed, but the memorials and park itself were simple and calming.

I saw the Enola Gay, the B-29 Superfortress that dropped the bomb on Hiroshima, on exhibit at the Air&Space museum in Washington, DC.

Which I thought about as I sat in the Park by the river listening to the rich tonal vibrations of the large bell that visitors were striking nearby.

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Sunday November 11
The rising sun reflected off the silver dome of a temple on a hillside overlooking the town. I would like to come back and see more of Hiroshima. The Castle, the Art Museum and numerous streets and attractions to browse another day. I had satisfied my curiosity and paid my respects.
Early breakfast at the hotel followed by the short walk to Hiroshima Station.
Sakura 540 to Shinosaka
8:26am track 14 seat 8A

Changed to a Hikari in Osaka for the ride to Tokyo.

Once again traversing busy Tokyo Station and the maze of hallways and passages leading to the many train lines with their respective platforms, but the signage is good and eventually I found the platform for the JR Sobu Rapid Line that will get me to the Kinchico Station. Interestingly it is the same platform that the N’EX Narita train utilizes.

Short walk to my Hotel: Moxy Tokyo Kinchico. I was early so I sipped a welcome drink and relaxed, just a brief wait before the receptionist handed me the keycard for Room 1011.

Well equipped room, basic but well done, comfortable.

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Hokusai Sumida Museum – On the site of original Hokusai House.
I wanted/expected more.
Short walk from the Hotel.
The Museum was opening a new exhibit, the kickoff party grand opening was underway when I arrived. A chamber orchestra playing on the 3rd floor and the sounds of a party drifted up the stairwell. Unfortunately it was a by invitation only affair. A limited Permanent Collection exhibit was my only option. Good, but just not enough.
Museum store selection of prints didn’t match up to the permanent collection. Disappointing. But still some new Hokusai input, but not much.

Monday November 12

Got out early, 6:30am, for breakfast at Tsukiji, but rush hour already underway and the train into the Ginza was crowded and hot, so I bailed out and headed the opposite direction to Ueno Park. Rainy walk. Vermeer exhibit going on at the Ueno Royal Museum I would like to see.., c’est la vie. Still early and the rain let up so walked around the park some more and listened to the crows cawing, waiting for the rush hour to taper off.

Tsukiji Market for sushi breakfast.

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Toyosu Market
3K walk from Tuskiji to the new market, Toyosu. This has replaced the Tuskiji wholesale market and offers better logistics, a modern state of the art facility and a solid buffer from the tourist interference experienced at Tuskiji. Looks pretty sterile compared to Tuskiji. The old market was destined to be a parking/transportation hub for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, but it didn’t appear any work had started.

Not a user friendly location in terms of easy transportation options and the limited views into the market were not rewarding. The only thing that indicated fish was the smell.
Found the pottery guy from the old market.
The restaurants had long waits and tour groups were pouring in as I walked out. The new Toyosu Market is probably great for the wholesale business, but not the same immediacy as Tuskiji for the tourists. End/Start of an Era.
Shijo -Mae train stop, took elevated Yurikamome Line to Shimbashi Station. Great “tour” of Tokyo bay. Lots of cranes, new construction. Train from Shimbashi back to Kinchico Station. Walk the area then back to the Hotel to finish packing and check out.

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Back to Denver

N’EX Train from Tokyo Station to Narita Terminal 1.
The seemingly endless escalator rises to the 4th floor from the train platform, then a short walk over to the south end for United check in.

Easy check in and immigration
United Lounge re-group, battery charge, WiFi and some time to think about the trip. Great adventure with some long walkabouts in interesting locations, easy numerous transportation options and helpful friendly people. Packed a lot into a short time frame. More people traveling in the off seasons.

Delayed Take off at 7:02pm, flight UA 142 to Denver.
Boeing 787-800 Dreamliner
37000’ at 621 mph
70mph + tailwind pushing us to Denver.
Bumpy ride coming out of Japan changing elevation to find that smooth air.

Changed my devices Tokyo JT to DENVER MT

Instantly 8:37pm JT Monday becomes 4:37AM MT Monday – Going back in time!

Crossed the coastline into North America near Vancouver, Canada.

Takeaways:

The Japan Rail Pass from JR East was a cost effective option based upon my itinerary. I purchased a 7 day pass and a Suica Card on the Japan Experience website. I downloaded the Japan Travel by NAVITIME App to my phone and it proved to be a reliable reference for train schedules, Maps, Attractions etc. . Train searches can be set up to prioritize those trains that are covered by the Rail Pass. For the trains/metros in Osaka and Tokyo not covered by the JR Pass I used the rechargeable Suica Card. All of my rail travel in Japan was covered between these two options. In other words, it was easy. You can model your itinerary to see if it is cost effective to buy the pass. For my travel the following was covered:

• The Narita Express Train between Narita Airport and Tokyo
• Most Tokyo City Trains
• Shinkansen Hikari Tokyo Central to Osaka Central
• Trains between Osaka and Kyoto
• Shinkansen Sikura Osaka Central to Hiroshima Central
• Shinkansen Sikura/Hikari Hiroshima to Tokyo Central with a train change in Osaka.
• The Narita Express between Tokyo Central and Narita Airport.
• Kyoto JR Nara Line
• Highly recommended.

Getting all of my seat assignments for the long distance trains at the JR East ticket counter in Tokyo Station on my first night in Japan was a good move. I had researched the schedules online and written down a few train options per travel day which made it easier to communicate with the agent and solved for the few sold out choices. The agent gave me a business card sized seat reservation voucher for each train that detailed the day, time, train number, coach and seat. You can always get a reservation at the station if your plans are not as nailed down and you need more flexibility.

The trains live up to their reputation: fast, clean, comfortable, on time and quiet. I traveled in the 2nd class coaches. Train Staff Members serviced the coaches selling food and drink items. I used the Hikari Trains, which are the in between line with the Nozumi being the fastest/fewer stops (Not covered by the JR East Rail Pass), the Hikari with more stops and then the Kodama Line being the “local,” with the most stops/longest duration.

There are more and more great travel apps! The Japan Travel app worked for me. Getting much easier to get from A-Z.

credits:

Japan Experience

https://www.japan-experience.com/

JR East

https://www.jreast.co.jp/e/customer_support/service_center.html

Japan Travel by NAVITIME from the Apple App Store

All rights reserved. All photos Copyright Jay Geiss 2018