Southeast Asia – Angkor

Itinerary

Ho Chi Minh City(aka Saigon), Vietnam – Siem Reap, Cambodia – Tokyo, Japan

Outbound: 04/07 2016

• UA139 DEN-NRT Boeing 787-8
• UA7973 (code share with Japan Air ANA) NRT-SGN Boeing 767-300

Vietnam: 04/8-10

• Hotel in Ho Chi Minh City/Saigon 04/8-10: Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon rm. 1909
• 3 of 4 airport transfers via Uber. First transfer was airport private car hire.

Cambodia: 04/10-13

• VN3825 SGN-REP Airbus 321
• Hotel in Siem Reap, Cambodia:  Golden Temple Residence rm. 404
• VN3824 REP-SGN Airbus 321

Vietnam: 04/13-14

• Hotel in Ho Chi Minh City/Saigon 04/13-14: Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon rm.1809
• All airport transfers via Uber

In Bound: 04/14 2016

• UA7974 (code share with Japan Air ANA) SGN-NRT Boeing 767-300
• UA138 NRT-DEN Boeing 787-8 cancelled

Tokyo 04/14

• (9hr layover in Tokyo) – Travel in/out of Tokyo via N’EX train Narita-Tokyo Station
• UA838   NRT-SFO Boeing 747-400
• UA2014  SFO-DEN Boeing 757-200

 

March 7-14 2016

Observations:

For a few years I have been attracted to the images of Angkor Wat in Cambodia which led to a look at the history of the Angkor region and planted the seed for this journey.  What I hadn’t fully understood from my reading was the age of these settlements,the size of the area and its multiple temple complexes.  Angkor was the capital of the Khmer Empire. The empire was established in 802AD with Rolus as its capital. Angkor became the capital in 900AD and was the political and religious center for 6 centuries. The remains of the Angkor metropolis today occupy around 77 sq. miles in northwest Cambodia. Thai invaders over ran the area in 1432 and Angkor went into decline. Also of interest was the history and current look of the area called Siem Reap which started as a small village and has grown, following the 17th century recapture by the Khmer, into a city of over 1 million inhabitants.  The key economic engine of Siem Reap and for that matter the country of Cambodia is the tourist trade associated with the Angkor Temples and the surrounding historical region.  The Cambodian flag has an image of Angkor Wat on it – enough said. Travel to Cambodia could have connected through several cities, the primes were Bangkok and Saigon.  I chose to route through Saigon as I had not been there previously and the memories of the turbulent times associated with our war in that country during the 60’s and 70’s needed a current day reality check. Note: Both Vietnam and Cambodia prefer the US $, at least in the larger cities and tourist areas. I did get some Vietnamese Dong from an ATM ( exchange Rate: 22,240.00 VND = 1 USD) for the ease of use at some places and also better bargaining position in the Ben Thanh market, but it didn’t make a huge difference.  I did not get any Cambodian currency, the Riel. (4,049 KHR = 1 USD), as all merchants, etc. preferred the USD. Take undamaged  and unmarked dollars with you.

Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam  (Saigon)

Air travel through Tokyo to Saigon was uneventful.  Good United Lounge in Tokyo for the layover.  Arrival into Saigon was around 10:30PM and not much activity at the Passport Control.  I had to complete my Visa requirements at the Visa desk, which went quickly and $50 later I was through immigration, picked up my bag and passed through a customs bag x-ray and headed out into the arrivals exit hallway prior to leaving the building.  I had added a Verizon International plan to my phone (100mb-100min-100text $40) and I tried scanning for a Uber Car.  However, the data plan failed to initiate so I hired a private car before exiting the terminal.  The arrival scene at the airport was a loud wall of people with signs and taxi drivers soliciting rides which quieted as I moved down the front of the terminal to the car and headed into town.  First thing you notice, other than the heat, is the number of motorbikes/cycles on the road.  3 or 4 to a motor bike is not uncommon.  The stop signs and traffic lights are apparently just a suggestion and not a requirement as drivers were just missing each other and in some cases making contact. It was late, the party hour, and the bars and restaurants were packed. About a 45min drive to the Renaissance, easy check in, great room on the 19th floor, 1909.

Very well located and comfortable full service hotel. Short walk to many of the touristic and historical sights as well as restaurants, coffee shops and bars. This was my base for two days in Saigon prior to my journey to Siem Reap, Cambodia. It would also be my hotel on the return from Cambodia and the long layover before the flights back to Denver via Tokyo.

Breakfast in the lounge on the 18th floor and headed out for a walkabout. I knew from past trips to Hong Kong and Singapore that the heat and humidity would be an issue, but the heat, 90’s F, that greeted me as I stepped out into the busy Saigon morning was instantly draining.

First route was down Dong Khoi Street.

 

This park is to the southwest of Notre Dame Cathedral.  My next destination was the large indoor/outdoor market, Ben Thanh.

I was hot by the time I reached the market area (about 15min from the park by Notre Dame Cathedral) so I stopped into the Ben Thanh Street Food Market half a block from the main market in search of coolness.  There is a great smoothie stand in the back with some picnic type tables and a little breeze.

I seek out the markets.  Cusco, Istanbul, Puerto Vallarta, and Cancun to name a few have great public markets, some more touristy than others, but always a great source of energy and visual excitement.  The Ben Thanh Market was huge and crowded with food stalls, clothing, food courts, flowers, tourist items, etc.

Some of the market, especially the clothing area, is densely packed and difficult to maneuver, but there are some bargains amidst a wide variety of options.  The vendors were friendly, persistent and interesting to work with.  I finally succumbed to the jet lag, heat and chaos and headed out of the market to find the hotel.

Siem Reap, Cambodia & the Angkor Temples

An early breakfast, some packing and checkout.  My excitement was building to reach Siem Reap, Cambodia and visit the Angkor Temples.  Easy Uber ride to the airport.  Check in with Vietnamese Airlines and passport control went quickly and I waited at Gate 10 for the shuttle to the plane.  Excellent free wifi at SGN airport.  We shuttled out and boarded the plane the old fashioned way, across the tarmac and up the stairs.  The plane was branded as Cambodian Angkor Air and the flight was a quick 1 hr up and down into a steamy overcast, very fast hard landing with heavy brakes and gasping passengers anxious to see if we would stop before the runway ended. Good thing I had a seatbelt on as I was thrown forward as the pilot kept braking.  Finally under control we made the turn into the taxiway and disembarked the old fashioned way into hot and humid afternoon and a walk to the Immigration’s Building. Once inside this new facility all is cool and calm.  I purchased an E-Visa online so passport control was easy and as we were the only flight arriving at this time the luggage came quickly.  I grabbed my bag and was nodded/waved through customs and moved out into the heat to find my ride.  The hotel sent a representative and a driver and soon I was enjoying a cold beverage and some welcoming discussion as we cruised into town.  Siem Reap was much larger than I had imagined with a busy flow of motorbikes, vehicles of all descriptions, bicycles, pedestrians all weaving in the flow.  1 million area residents was the number suggested by the hotel representative.  It was a half hour drive to reach the hotel where I was ushered into a very calming lobby offered cold drinks and a snack while the representative checked me in.  She also arranged a car and driver, as we had discussed on the drive in,  for the next day to take me around to the temple sites.  Great room, amenities, internet, staff & perks equal a great hotel, my base for the next three nights. (Rm 404)  Just a block away from the Angkor Night Market and Pub Street.  After a refresh I headed out to check out the Angkor Night Market and find some food.

 

The Khmer New Year was starting the day I was leaving (bad timing on my part).  The streets were full of tourists, locals, vendors selling everything and anything, Tuk-Tuks, autos, motorbikes, restaurants and bars, shops and massage.  Lots of movement and noises filled the night.  The Night Market and Pub Street were relatively vehicle free pedestrian walkways.

 

Angkor Wat & Ta Prohm

Early breakfast at the hotel with an 8:15 pickup for the Temple Tour.  The hotel provided a nice SUV with cold AC, a driver and a cooler full of water, beer and towels.  We head to the new Visitor Center to get my Temples Pass.  The center use to be on the road to Angkor Wat, however the facility was too small with limited parking and ticket windows and over time could not handle the volume of visitors.  So the government built a new facility and a new Historical Museum a bit further out of the way to the Temples.  Actually worked quite well, fast service and for $40 I came away with a three day pass with my picture on it.  We got to the west gate of Angkor Wat around 9:30AM where I was let out with the arrangement to meet up at the east gate. I grab some cold water and cold towels and join the flow. Many tour buses, cars, Tuk-Tuks, motorbikes, pedestrians everywhere, vendors and Angkor Wat.  I was there, pretty awesome.  Long causeway over the moat.  The image that was imprinted prior to arrival was maybe further to the south and east along the moat taken in different weather with different light with fewer people, but I could see the temple towers and I moved ahead on this hot muggy overcast morning towards the gate along with hundreds of others. Temperature is already in the 90’s with a forecasted high of 104 (40+ degrees Celsius). Angkor Wat was built during King Suryavarman II’s reign between 1113-1150 AD.

The vast courtyard leading up to the temple was not expected and contained several smaller buildings with a current vendor encampment of stalls on the north side.  The scale and grandeur of the entire site was impressive.  The quality and preservation of the bas-reliefs and carvings was incredible and visually rewarding. I took hundreds of pictures working my way through the complex.  The line to get up the stairs at the main temple was about 100 people long and moving very slowly, so will get that view as well as others missed on my next visit.  Incredibly hot and thirsty, I headed out the east gate along a treed jungle road.  The views looking back were great.  I reached the parking area, found my driver and enjoyed a cold beverage and the cold AC as we took off for Ta Prohm, the Temple of Rocks and Roots. (Actually “Ancestor of Brahma”)  Ta Prohm is the site where you see the massive Banyan Tree roots engulfing and in some cases destroying the structures.  Built during King Jayavarman VII’s reign, 1181-1201 it was a powerful wealthy Buddhist Temple.  The French chose to minimize restoration in the 19th century and much of the site remains as they found it. This time I am let out at the east gate with pickup on the west side.  I am sufficiently cooled down and grab some water and head out.

Ta Prohm has a quiet walk in and out through the jungle. Not as busy as Angkor Wat so there is more time to reflect, observe and do my photo taking.  As at Angkor Wat, there are many bas reliefs and lentil carvings in great shape for their age, however the ages and lack of restoration shows as the jungle continues to reclaim the site.  Despite my hydration attempts and pauses in the cooler shades my thermostat is blowing a gasket.  I find the car and driver and enjoy some cold beverages and the AC on full blast.  We had planned to take in the Angkor Thom site next, however I  am out of steam.  We agree on another tour tomorrow to take in Angkor Thom, Preah Khan and the Woman’s Temple, Banteay Srei and head back to Siem Reap.  I enjoy the views as we head to the hotel.  We agree on a 6:30AM start and I get the car and driver booked at the front desk. I also book a massage for the afternoon which gets me relaxed and I continue my cool down at the pool.  That evening I take in some of the traditional dancing show at the hotel and then head back down through the Night Market and its gauntlet of massage offers, Tuk-Tuk offers, vendor calls, etc. and end up on Pub Street at the Triangle BBQ. Family seating and I have an interesting family next to me with little kids to interact with. The streets are more crowded as I head back to the hotel as the visitors continue to pour in for the upcoming holiday. Some writing, reading and video chat, then to bed to rest before next day’s early start.

 

Angkor Thom – Preah Khan – Banteay Srei

5AM came too soon as I just fell asleep around 4AM.  Breakfast, grabbed my pack and headed out for Angkor Thom, the “Great City.” Light was good as we got to the huge complex.  Entered on the south side over a bridge lined with warriors through a gate with the large faces that are symbolic of the Bayon Temple.  We parked across the road from Bayon on the southwest side and I headed out across a field to the west entrance. This complex is huge with multiple temples and structures. Also built during the reign of Jayavarman VII, the complex covers almost 4sq. miles.  I never would have made it through this site in the heat of the day yesterday.  The many towers of Banyon Temple have 4 smiling faces looking towards the 4 cardinal directions of east, west, north and south.  Very few visitors at this time of day and I make the most of the photo opportunities.  Great bas reliefs all through the multiple heights that are obtainable.  My favorite site so far.  There are major New Years preparations underway with an alter set up on the Bayon south gate and across the road multiple stages are going in a big field.  I walk back to the car and we head down the road where I take in the Terrace of the Elephants and the Terrace of the Leper King which is the more interesting of the two terraces with amazing bas reliefs.  I satisfy my curiosity with the area and we head out for Preah Khan as the heat begins to build.

Preah Khan is another temple with a Banyan tree root problem, though not as severe as Ta Prohm.  There is about a quarter mile walk to the west entrance.  I crossed a bridge with stone figures and ornamentation over a moat. Along the path there is a small stage set up, common to many of the sites, where a band of disabled people play songs for tips.  These folks have been injured by land mines introduced during the Vietnam War or during the subsequent Khmer Rouge War in the ’70’s.  There are warnings not to stray too far from the pathways at all of the sites in case of undiscovered ordinance.  This is a low, height wise, temple with long corridors and various courtyards.  Some damage from the trees and huge piles of building stones yet to be sorted out and restored.  The bas reliefs and lentil carvings are good and I pause for a cool down outside the east gate to contemplate the site in its glory days.  I head back through the long corridor to the west gate and join the driver for some much needed AC and a cold drink.  Lots of time to relax as we head to the Banteay Srei complex about 30Km away.

Interesting view of the Cambodian landscape with bare hot dry land, dry riverbeds, skinny cattle and many people just sitting in the shade.  Hot sun was glaring through the haze.  We passed through some small villages all of which had vendor stands selling fruits, tourist items and drinks, once through them we were back to a routine of hot dry land, shacks interspersed with larger houses and the relentless sun.  Many homes are built on stilts as the driver explains that during monsoon this area will flood. We reach Banteay Srei in about 30min.  This complex is the most developed in regards to facilities such as entrance gates, visitor center, restrooms, gift shop and an organized vendor stall set up.  It is also one of the smaller sites and I make my way through the temple site in 30min.  The carvings are very intricate and well preserved.  The site was not commissioned by a king so it is not considered a royal temple.  Dedicated to various Hindu gods and demons it has the most exquisite carvings and statuary I have seen on this trip.

Heading back to Siem Reap around 1PM.  It has been a full morning and we take a different return route, but the views are pretty similar.  Many Tuk-Tuks on the road carrying tourists, would be a slow noisy way to travel such a distance, but an easy way to stop everywhere for a vendor visit or food break.  Back at the hotel I hydrate and have some food by the pool where I catch up with my notes.  I have no more Cambodian Temple sites to visit on this trip and I start reflecting on this adventure and preparing myself for the travel home.  I have dinner in the hotel restaurant and watch the entire Traditional Dance Show which I have only seen parts of previously.  Following dinner I go Irish Pub hunting.  Where ever I travel I look for the Irish Pub and Siem Reap has several.  I sit with the owner of Mad Murphy’s Pub, just off of Pub Street, and enjoy a few pints before heading back to start packing.

 

 

Restless night so got up early and finished packing.  Good breakfast and headed out for one more walkabout down to the Old Market.  Bustling with preparations for the New Years with floral arrangements going on and market shops opening.  Enjoyed the various activities and looks, had a smoothie from a vendor cart then headed back to checkout and catch my ride to the airport.

Siem Reap, Cambodia – Ho Chi Minh City (aka Saigon), Vietnam

Never a good time for a great trip to come to an end – Checked out and ready to roll.  Pictures, good byes and how could we do better? – Out to the van and off to the Airport.  Traffic heavy, first day of the Khmer New Year.  Easy ride, line up for check in – New Years Scarf is the gift from the airline.  Passport control and out to the gate.  We walk out to the tarmac and up the stairs to the plane.  Quick trip to Saigon.  While waiting for passport control I get on the airport wifi and get the Uber app going and by the time I get my bag and head out I am getting confirmation of a ride into town.  Meet the driver, get to the hotel, check in (rm 1809) and head to the lounge for snacks and drinks. Restless night so hit the lounge for breakfast early.  Beautiful morning in Saigon. My first flight is to Tokyo which doesn’t leave until nearly mid-night so have to book another day at the hotel to get a 9PM checkout.  I head out in the “cool’ of the morning for a walk around Saigon.  I brave the traffic and walk through the vehicle stream to the riverside.  Head to the Bitexco tower and visit the 49th floor observatory.  Good 360 degree views of the city.  Heading out I retrace my steps to the Ben Thanh smoothie stand and the market.  I do some shopping and head out for the hotel checking out some sights along the way.  I hydrate at the hotel lounge, get a relaxing massage at the spa and re-pack my stuff.

Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam – Denver, Colorado, USA

There is an Uber “surge” going on as I line up a ride coming out of the elevator.  Check out is easy and catch my ride.  The driver has trouble getting his map app to work and doesn’t know how to get to the airport.  I pull up the route and show it to him, he makes a hard U turn into traffic and we head out. Never a dull moment with the Saigon drivers. I have to show him the route several more times, but we arrive in good time and I head for check in. Airport is busy, I get a pass to the “Rose Lounge” at check in, head through a priority line to security & passport control. (I don’t think the priority line was for me however the person watching waved me through.) A little slow, not enough security vs too many passengers.  Head the wrong way to the lounge but get a good tour through the extensive duty free shops and eventually find the very packed Rose Lounge.  Grab a snack and beverage, find a seat and get on the excellent airport wifi. Flight leaves just after midnight on what will be a very long Friday. I sleep most of the way, thanks to my relaxing massage no doubt, and we arrive at Narita Airport on time.  I have a 9hr layover prior to my direct flight to Denver so I pass through customs and head to the JR East ticket office to get a ticket on the N’EX Airport Express train into Tokyo.  The first office isn’t open yet so I head to the office next to the turn-styles that lead to the trains. I also pickup a Suica Card for the city trains & metro lines.  My Verizon International Plan includes Tokyo so I switch on my phone as we start off on the hour+ ride to Tokyo Station.  I immediately get a text from United informing me that my flight to Denver has been cancelled.  Not good, but travel often has these kind of moments.  Nice day in Tokyo and I emerge from the train into the chaos of Tokyo Station.  My plan is to go to the Tsukiji Fish Market for a sushi breakfast/lunch.  I find the metro line to what turns out to be the secondary station for the market, but I get my Google Maps working and get over to the market area which is packed with tourists like myself.  I had not encountered crowds like this on my December Tokyo trip and I had to come up with plan B for sushi as the lines outside all of the restaurants were too long for my time budget.  I found an ATM at a 7-11 type convenience store, bought a water and found a spot to sit and call United.  The cellular service in Tokyo was excellent and I quickly got my travel re-routed to Denver through San Francisco.  Seats would be available at the gate, per the agent.  I returned to the market, located the pottery and tea shops I discovered in December and bought some gifts then headed out for a walk down through the Ginza.

I took a metro ride up to Ueno Park in hopes of seeing the Cherry Blossoms, however this took longer than I anticipated.  I did make it to the park but I didn’t have time to go very far so muttered the famous words “next time” and got back on a train to Tokyo Station.  I changed my return ticket for an earlier train so I would have time to see what I could do about a seat assignment.  Passed through customs quickly and headed towards the United Lounge.  United had set up a “Triage” center for the Denver flight passengers just before the lounge where I got my new boarding passes, however seat assignment was still going to be a call at the gate as the plane was full.  I enjoyed the lounge and headed to the gate early where an agent pulled a bulkhead aisle seat out of thin air for the ride over to San Francisco.  Slept through most of the flight to SFO where I had a 2hr+ layover.  Got into Denver in the early evening on what turned out to be the day before the airport was closed due to an intense snow storm. (United cancelled all of their Saturday flights and many on Sunday.  It was the third time in the airport’s history that it was shut down due to a weather event.) 104 degrees in Siem Reap to 28 degrees in Denver, good to be home.

Summary:

Quick trip, approx. 17,500 mile journey round trip.  Flights went well, lounges were good and the journey into Tokyo during my longest layover definitely beat hanging out at the Narita Airport. The heat and humidity were overwhelming for me at times, but it doesn’t appear that the places I visited on this trip (with the exception of Tokyo) have a cool season.  A surprise was finding Uber in operation in Saigon and I got an email from Uber indicating that they were expanding their Saigon fleet to include motorbikes, a somewhat scary proposition based on the number of motorbikes on the road, frequency of accidents and heavy traffic at most times of day.

Saigon, Vietnam is a growing large metropolis.  The large area opposite my hotel on the other side of the river is under massive construction with all indications that this will be a huge addition to the city with more office and residential growth reaching upwards.  The Vietnamese people I met were polite, hard working and, for the most part, easy to work with and had a good command of the English Language.  There are very obvious signs in the architecture, city layout, commercial enterprises that Saigon has been occupied by western powers, they had taken what works for them from those times and emerged as a strong commercial leader in Southeast Asia. I enjoyed the huge Ben Than Market and had fun finding some gifts and negotiating with the vendors. I did get the sense that Vietnam, at least in Saigon, has moved on from the wars, probably better than we have in America.  I did not get into any political discussions nor were any issues brought up so I do not know how communism affects everyday life.  Saigon was not the focus of this trip, only passing through, however I did get around enough to know that I will be back and see more of the country.

Siem Reap, Cambodia and the Angkor Temples were the highlight I was expecting.  I was not prepared for the size of Siem Reap and the amount of development underway with new hotels and shopping.  Siem Reap, especially the Night Market-Pub Street area near my hotel reminded me of a mix of Aquas Caliente at the base of Machu Pichu, Peru and Mercado 28 in Cancun on steroids.  Quite the hustle going on, working hard to make a dollar. The prices for merchandise were low and vendors were ready to negotiate. Wages are very low compared to the US and lodging and food services, even in the tourist areas were relatively lower than Vietnam.  My hotel was one of the best I have ever stayed in and according to the manager they are building several new hotels and some restaurants.  The Temples were worth the trip.  I did not commit to guided tours as I wanted the flexibility to take in what I could at my speed.  The driver/car solution provided by the hotel fit my needs exactly and I got a great introduction to the sites I was interested in.  I will definitely do some more homework on the area before returning.  I did get the sense that there are many left out of the economic boom in Siem Reap, especially on the drive to Banteay Srei.  Many people were just sitting in their yards or wandering around and talking with the neighbors.  The housing was not kept up and the cattle were skinny and struggling for food.  There is a major children’s hospital in Siem Reap reportedly funded by a wealthy benefactor as the government won’t.  Families bring their children from all over the country for treatment.

Lastly, the interest in and acceptance of the US dollar speaks to instability in the Vietnamese and Cambodian currencies.  I don’t know the extent of the acceptance outside of Saigon and Siem Reap, however it made it easy for me. I look forward to a return trip(s) to both Vietnam and Cambodia.

 

resources used:

Vietnam & Angkor Wat by DK Eyewitness Travel

 

Click on photo for slide show: